ETS Drift Ute – Its cool back here

After trying to package everything into the front i decided to throw the radiator out back, i know its a fair bit of extra plumbing but it will make the engine bay a lot nicer to work on so I’m going for it.

I also ditched the alloy pipe and remade one out of stainless, this is the start of the twin 80mm pipes that will exit the rear.

Im also getting closer to having the tunnel almost done, I’m really glad as its been a pain to build.

Ive also been learning to AC weld, I’m starting to get the idea and have almost finished the plenum, just have to weld on the flange for my new Plazmaman Throttle Body.

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22 Comments
  1. Looks great! Im so glad your running the bodied look!! Body dropped trucks even with a static drop look so fresh! I cant wait to see this thing hit the track.

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  2. Btw what frame is that above the door?

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  3. One thing i know about Rear radiator you have to bleed the air from the system at the highest point

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    • You have to bleed any cooling system from the highest point. That’s the only way to get air pockets out..

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  4. @ Charles : so jack the back right up when filling it??

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  5. Nige you’re like the Picasso of metal fabrication! Unreal

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  6. @charles that why we have coolant system header tanks to put at the highest point of the car

    And having raditor laying low at back help this as well

    Should have two filler holes (one for engine bay and one near the back)

    Keep the good work up

    Pat

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  7. Yes and no.
    You really have a system with two high points, so you need to bleed the air from both places before starting the engine. Effectively the top the radiator and the top of the engine connected with a lot of low piping. You should open both bleed ports before filling, then when the lower port starts spitting water close it and finish filling through the highest point possible. In your application I believe that will be either the upper radiator hose or the heater core return line. Putting a fill valve or t in either of those locations will allow you to easily fill the system and bleed the system of air front and rear.

    I have a radiator setup with the cap near the bottom in my car and have to bleed the air at my heater or the heater won’t work.(different kind of car for a different application but the principles are the same)

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  8. What size tb did you end up going?

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  9. man, your stuff is always so clean… clean shop, clean work, I bet even the toilet is always clean. A clean shop makes life so much better.

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  10. Very nice with the radiator in the back. It works well. All the porsches have it. (just opposite) Just use vacuum when you bleed it.
    All the weldings look nice man. Keep up the good work =)

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  11. why did you ditched the alloy pipe for ss one^

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  12. Hey Nigel , I hope you bolted the plenum to a head or a thick piece of steel so it doesn’t distort cause it would be a bitch to ruin the o ring seats …

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  13. A weekend off gives you more inspiration.

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  14. Very nice Nigel, the rad is a good move and same with that getting rid of that alloy exhaust, that would have been like shooting poison, lol.

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  15. Hey Nigel, first of all love your work mate, have followed your blog for around a year now, but first time writing, just curious how u plan to run your exhaust out the centre rear now the radiator is there?

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  16. Hope theres gonna be some mad protection toward the rear cause that radiator will be toast.

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    • To be honest the rad will be the least of my worries Sam, its a $200 off the shelf unit, id much rather bin that than most other things on this.

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  17. Looking amazing, i thought you might like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0Md198drmw&feature=player_embedded

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  18. Nice progress, wont be long now! I wish my garage was as tidy as yours man. Keep up the good work.

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  19. How much heat soak will come from the exhaust to the radiator in that position mate?
    I’m guessing you will make some sort of heat shield with ya sick fab skills 🙂

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    • side throw exhaust at front of car dude

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